Install Drag To Disc Software An easy-to-install environment to develop and deBitNami LAMPStack v.5.3.9-0 BitNami LAMPStack Native Installer is an easy-to- install environment to develop and deploy PHP applications. Scrutinize each carbon fiber disc for wear. The outside edge should be smooth, and the disc should have a constant thickness. If you find anything unusual, replace the disc. Just like you did with the felt washers, brush the dirt off with a soft brush, apply a good spinning reel solvent and clean the surface by gently rubbing with a soft rag.
Just 10 years ago, building a performance Chevelle for most people meant focusing only on going fast in a straight line. You don't have to go too fast, however, to realize that a performance braking system is a wise upgrade.
Many Chevelles came from the factory with front disc brakes, which work pretty well in mild-performance applications. In fact, the easy upgrade for earlier all-drum brake Chevelles was to simply grab the spindle, hub, and brake assembly off the front of one of these later cars. Those early cars, however, came with what is now a very archaic system that most would consider extremely inadequate, even for street driving. They had a single-reservoir master cylinder; if you lost pressure anywhere in the system, you lost all braking ability. If you've ever driven a vehicle with four-wheel drums, you know that they are adequate for one stop from 60 or 70 mph, but they heat up and become nearly worthless after a few hard stops. It's definitely not a performance setup.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book 'CHEVELLE PERFORMANCE PROJECTS: 1964-1972'. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link: LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
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The game has changed considerably for performance brakes over the past decade. You can now buy a bolt-on kit that allows you to put world-class brakes on your Chevelle. Naturally there are trade-offs, but there are now more options than ever before.
Rotor size is how most people describe and compare a disc brake package. And that's an important measurement, as it determines much of the perfor¬mance of a disc brake system. Rotors that are 11 and 12 inches in diameter are nice street systems, while 13-inch and larger brakes are required for competition-level performance.
Luckily, there are more brake upgrade kits available for Chevelles than there were brake variations over the entire 1964–1972 run of these cars. Everything from very mild boltons to wild systems that rival that of a current ZR1 Corvette are available. Naturally, the costs of these systems vary widely, so a careful evaluation of what you really need and what else will be affected is a wise place to start.
When doing a brake upgrade, make sure all of the parts in the system work together. And I don't just mean that they physically fit together. It's extremely important that your front and rear brake systems complement each other. It's also critical that your master cylinder be matched to provide the volume and pressure needed to make use of the new brakes at the wheels.
Performance Factors
The front brakes provide the bulk of a vehicle's stopping power, so that is where most people concentrate their efforts. If you are building a Chevelle primarily for street driving and want good brake performance without competition-level performance, then a decent disc-brake upgrade up front with stock rear drums can be adequate. However, the brake system does need to be reasonably balanced. If you install 14-inch rotors and six-piston calipers on the front, you need to upgrade the rear to be in the same league.
Clamping Force
When it comes to disc brakes, stopping power is defined by swept area, leverage, and clamping force. Of these, clamping force is the hardest to determine. It is affected by the master cylinder bore and volume, whether the system is boosted (power brakes) or not, caliper volume, number of pistons, size of pistons, brake-line diameter, pedal ratio, and a few other factors. When shopping for a disc brake upgrade, the only indicator of clamping power you can garner is the number of pistons and piston diameter. For the rest of it, the factors are dependent on other components on your car.
Swept Area
The other elements that determine a system's braking power are something you can compare. Swept area is a factor of rotor diameter and pad height. If you visualize the path that the pads cover on the rotor as the rotor spins, that is the swept area. You can also use this formula to determine your swept area:
Swept Area = A1 – A2
Where:
A1 = (3.1416 x D12) ÷ 4
A2 = (3.1416 x D22) ÷ 4
And:
D1 = the diameter of the outside circle created by your brake pads
D2 = the diameter of the inside circle created by your brake pads
The swept area of a new disc brake system should be a published specification available from the manufacturer.
Pad Postition
The third factor in braking performance is how far the pads are mounted from the rotor centerline. The farther away they are, the greater the leverage of the pads and caliper and the better they are at stopping the vehicle. This is why rotor diameter is so important. Naturally, a larger-diameter rotor may require a larger-diameter wheel, which may or may not play into your plans.
One of the biggest trade-offs you face with the larger brake packages is wheel diameter. There is a limit to how much brake rotor and caliper you can fit in a 15- or even a 16-inch wheel. And the largest brakes, such as the Baer 14-inch rotor, six-piston caliper system shown here, require specific wheel designs. Transfer media files samsung. This dictates your wheel diameter and, in some cases, which wheel companies you can choose from.
As well as matching the rear brakes to the front, the master cylinder also needs to be matched to the overall brake system. A four-wheel disc sys¬tem requires a different master cyl¬inder than a disc/drum system. Most disc brake kits are available with a master cylinder sized for that system.
Generally, a 12-inch rotor is the absolute largest that fits in a 15-inch wheel, and some of these require a 16-inch wheel for proper caliper clearance. When you have more than 12 inches in rotor diameter, you need to get the brake intrusion template from the manufacturer and make sure that the wheels you have, or the wheels you want, will clear the rotors.
Proportioning Valve
If you make a size change in rotors or calipers, you definitely want to install a new proportioning valve. A lot of kits come with a distribution block that provides pre-determined proportioning, but I prefer an adjustable valve so I can dial in the front-to-rear brake bias for the car. No two performance Chevelles have the exact same front-to-rear weight distribution or weight transfer during braking. To optimize the brake bias, you have to be able to adjust it. This is also very handy if you plan on taking your car on the track, as you can dial the car in for that specific track and how the car is performing that day.
Master Cylinder
The other brake component to consider upgrading is the master cylinder. If you are changing the architecture of the system (from disc/drum to disc/disc, for example), you need to change the master accordingly. Often the the manufacturer of your rotors and calipers have a matched master cylinder. Some builders like to use late-model GM master cylinders, which generally have a metal bore and plastic reservoir. These do match the volume and bore diameter requirements of many of the larger brake systems, but they require metric-to-SAE adapters for the brake lines. By sticking with an aftermarket master cylinder, you can use one that performs well and has SAE threads for the brake lines.
If you will be drag racing the car, install a roll control system. This is an electric solenoid that mounts in the front brake line to lock the front brakes, allowing you to do a burnout without working against the rear brakes. They are inex¬pensive, easy to wire, and easy to install between the master cylinder and the junction block that splits the front brake line left to right.
When considering a brake upgrade for your Chevelle, select a system for the level of performance you desire and how you use the car. If you have drums at all four corners and are not looking for ultimate performance, an 11-inch front disc brake upgrade makes a huge improvement without breaking the bank. However, if you want to drive your car hard at the autocross and road courses, and want to raise the eyebrows of new Corvette owners, consider some of the great 13- and 14-inch, six-piston kits that are available. The best part is that they bolt on! For this Chevelle project, I'm installing a 14-inch, six-piston Baer Pro+ system on the front and a 13-inch version of the same system on the rear. The rear has an internal parking brake assembly with a mini-set of brake shoes that sit inside the hub part of the rotor.
CPP even makes a master cylinder that retains the muscle car look while providing the volume and diameter that works with most big brake systems; and it offers brake line ports on both sides of the master, letting you choose whether the brake lines run to the left or right of the master.
And:
D1 = the diameter of the outside circle created by your brake pads
D2 = the diameter of the inside circle created by your brake pads
The swept area of a new disc brake system should be a published specification available from the manufacturer.
Pad Postition
The third factor in braking performance is how far the pads are mounted from the rotor centerline. The farther away they are, the greater the leverage of the pads and caliper and the better they are at stopping the vehicle. This is why rotor diameter is so important. Naturally, a larger-diameter rotor may require a larger-diameter wheel, which may or may not play into your plans.
One of the biggest trade-offs you face with the larger brake packages is wheel diameter. There is a limit to how much brake rotor and caliper you can fit in a 15- or even a 16-inch wheel. And the largest brakes, such as the Baer 14-inch rotor, six-piston caliper system shown here, require specific wheel designs. Transfer media files samsung. This dictates your wheel diameter and, in some cases, which wheel companies you can choose from.
As well as matching the rear brakes to the front, the master cylinder also needs to be matched to the overall brake system. A four-wheel disc sys¬tem requires a different master cyl¬inder than a disc/drum system. Most disc brake kits are available with a master cylinder sized for that system.
Generally, a 12-inch rotor is the absolute largest that fits in a 15-inch wheel, and some of these require a 16-inch wheel for proper caliper clearance. When you have more than 12 inches in rotor diameter, you need to get the brake intrusion template from the manufacturer and make sure that the wheels you have, or the wheels you want, will clear the rotors.
Proportioning Valve
If you make a size change in rotors or calipers, you definitely want to install a new proportioning valve. A lot of kits come with a distribution block that provides pre-determined proportioning, but I prefer an adjustable valve so I can dial in the front-to-rear brake bias for the car. No two performance Chevelles have the exact same front-to-rear weight distribution or weight transfer during braking. To optimize the brake bias, you have to be able to adjust it. This is also very handy if you plan on taking your car on the track, as you can dial the car in for that specific track and how the car is performing that day.
Master Cylinder
The other brake component to consider upgrading is the master cylinder. If you are changing the architecture of the system (from disc/drum to disc/disc, for example), you need to change the master accordingly. Often the the manufacturer of your rotors and calipers have a matched master cylinder. Some builders like to use late-model GM master cylinders, which generally have a metal bore and plastic reservoir. These do match the volume and bore diameter requirements of many of the larger brake systems, but they require metric-to-SAE adapters for the brake lines. By sticking with an aftermarket master cylinder, you can use one that performs well and has SAE threads for the brake lines.
If you will be drag racing the car, install a roll control system. This is an electric solenoid that mounts in the front brake line to lock the front brakes, allowing you to do a burnout without working against the rear brakes. They are inex¬pensive, easy to wire, and easy to install between the master cylinder and the junction block that splits the front brake line left to right.
When considering a brake upgrade for your Chevelle, select a system for the level of performance you desire and how you use the car. If you have drums at all four corners and are not looking for ultimate performance, an 11-inch front disc brake upgrade makes a huge improvement without breaking the bank. However, if you want to drive your car hard at the autocross and road courses, and want to raise the eyebrows of new Corvette owners, consider some of the great 13- and 14-inch, six-piston kits that are available. The best part is that they bolt on! For this Chevelle project, I'm installing a 14-inch, six-piston Baer Pro+ system on the front and a 13-inch version of the same system on the rear. The rear has an internal parking brake assembly with a mini-set of brake shoes that sit inside the hub part of the rotor.
CPP even makes a master cylinder that retains the muscle car look while providing the volume and diameter that works with most big brake systems; and it offers brake line ports on both sides of the master, letting you choose whether the brake lines run to the left or right of the master.
One of the nice things about a GM master cylinder, and an aftermarket one for these applications, is that the bolt pattern to attach it to the firewall and the brake pedal shaft hasn't changed. You can bolt a master cylinder meant for a 1970 Corvette or 1976 GM truck right onto a 1964 Chevelle firewall.
Roll Control Solenoid
If you plan on drag racing, installing a roll control solenoid is a good idea. This splices into the front brake line and holds pressure to the front when activated. It keeps the front brakes locked when you release the pedal and lets the rear spin freely. When you let off the switch, the front brakes release.
Project 1: High-Performance Brake System Installation
Step-1: Insepct Your New Disc Brake Kit
The Baer rear kit comes with a park bracket, which replaces your drum brake backing plate. Baer makes quite a few park brackets to fit the factory axles, as well as the popular axle swap and aftermarket ends. For example, the Moser 9-inch axle in this car has early Ford large bearings. Measure the outside diameter of your axle bearing and the distance (height and width) between the backing plate bolts to make sure you order the correct park bracket. Before installing the park bracket, remove the parking brake shoe and the attaching hardware.
Step-2: Disassemble Parking Brake
This Moser axle is brand new and has never had any brakes mounted on it. Assuming that you're starting with drum brakes, you need to remove the drum brake assemblies and backing plates from the axle. On a Ford axle, a retaining plate bolts to the axle flange. This holds the axle in place; a GM axle uses C-clips in the middle of the differential.
Step-3: Install Parking Brake Hardware
The parking brake bracket slips over the axle shaft with the parking brake lever facing the center of the car and the recessed holes for attaching bolts to the axle end facing outward. Mounting these with the parking brake levers on top of the axle keeps things clean looking from underneath as possible. You can also swap the park brackets side to side and mount them with the parking brake levers on the bottom of the axle, if you prefer.
Step-4: Install Parking Brake Bracket
Use the original backing plate T-bolts to bolt the parking bracket bracket in place. Your axle flange should have an access hole in it that allows you to fit a socket and torque wrench on the nuts; rotate the axle to torque the bolts in a crisscross pattern. For 3/8-inch T-bolts, torque them to 45 ft-lbs. If you will be using the parking brake, install the shoe over the actuator. Baer makes a parking brake cable system that attaches to the factory Chevelle cable coming from the parking brake pedal.
Step-5: Install Caliper Brackets
Baer supplies two sets of caliper bracket bolts; one pair comes with Vibra-Tite threadlocker applied, and one comes without it. Use the bolts without the threadlocker for the first mockup, because you will most likely need to take them back off, insert shims from the selection provided, and try it again. Install the bolts with threadlocker once you have the shim pack completely figured out and are ready to install the caliper bracket for the last time. The caliper mount bracket bolts to the back of the parking brake bracket. One side is complete tapered and does not rest flat against the rotor without the wheel installed. It's tapered to fit inside the tapered cup of the wheel.
Step-6: Install Rotor over Wheel Studs
Use three lug nuts to snug the rotor onto the axle. The lug nuts on this car have a shoulder that is supposed to face inward, so they were installed backward to hold the rotor in place, which is pretty typical. This was done so it doesn't ruin the shoulders of the bolts. Make sure that you put the rotor on the correct side of the car; the 'L' sticker tells you that this rotor belongs on the driver's side of the car. This ensures that the grooves in the rotor are angled the correct way.
Step-7: Install Calipers
This is the only difficult part of installing the brakes, and it isn't that hard. With the rotor tightened onto the axle, slip the caliper over the rotor and tighten it onto the bracket. Using dial calipers, measure the gap from the rotor to the caliper body at the top inside, top outside, bottom inside, and bottom outside. Record all four of these numbers.
Step-8: Determine Shims Required
Subtract the top inside number from the top outside number, and then divide that number by two. This is how big of a shim you need to install between the caliper bracket and the park brake bracket at the top bolt. Do the same with the measurement from the bottom of the caliper to determine the shim needed there. Baer supplies a good selection of precise shims with the kit.
Install the shims between the park bracket and the caliper bracket and check the measurements again. You want to get these gaps as close to equal as possible, and ideally within .005 inch to minimize brake noise. Once you have it correct, replace the caliper bracket bolts with Vibra-Tite-coated bolts and torque them to 85 ft-lbs.
Step-9: Install Brake Pads and Calipers
Install the pads in the calipers, and then bolt the calipers onto the brackets. These bolts should be torqued to 75 ft-lbs.
Step-10: Install Banjo Bolt and Brake Lines
The kit comes with a banjo bolt, two copper wash-ers, and a flexible brake line. Place one copper washer on each side of the banjo fitting on the steel-braided line and insert the banjo bolt. Once the line is positioned the way you want it on the axle, tighten the banjo bolt to 15 to 20 ft-lbs.
Step-11: Install Front Caliper Bracket
Baer makes various caliper brackets and rotors for the popular front suspension upgrades. If the OEM spindle and hub are not compatible with aftermarket brake parts, Baer provides new billet aluminum hubs to install with its rotors. You need to repeat the mock-up, measuring, and shimming routine you performed on the rear to install the front.
Drag To Disc Install
Step-12: Set Spindle Nut
To properly set the spindle nut, bolt the rotor to the spindle with three lug nuts, tighten the spindle nut to about 10 ft-lbs, and spin the hub, seating the bearings. Loosen the nut and repeat this procedure once more. Next, loosen the nut, and then snug it by hand. Spin the rotor and slowly tighten the nut using a ratchet and socket until there is a very light drag placed on the spinning rotor and hub assembly. Install the cotter pin and dust cap.
Step-13: Torque Caliper Bolts
Once you have shimmed the caliper bracket, tighten the three 1/2-inch bolts to 110 ft-lbs, the two caliper bracket bolts to 85 ft-lbs, and the caliper mounting bolts to 75 ft-lbs. The front brakes also come with banjo bolts, copper washers, and braided-steel brake lines. Route the brake lines carefully so that they do not bind or get caught in suspension components as you steer and drive the car.
Step-14: Determine Location for Proportioning Valve
Installing a Baer adjustable proportioning valve lets you dial in the front-to-rear brake bias, effectively turning the braking power at the rear up or down to match the driving conditions. This valve can be spliced into the rear brake line anywhere along the chassis. Some people mount it under the master cylinder. For a street car, once you tune the brake system, you probably never need to adjust it again. However, if your car will see a lot of very different types of racing, you can mount it with the knob within reach of the driver while he or she is belted in.
Step-15: Mount Rear Brake Line
The rear line runs along the driver-side frame rail. This frame has been boxed for rigidity using an ABC Performance Frame Boxing Kit. This provides a solid surface to run the brake line on and to mount the proportioning valve where it can poke through the floor just outboard of the driver's seat.
Step-16: Mount Brake Proportioning Valve
Mark the location and use a 1½-inch hole saw to drill a hole in the floor. Before drilling, make sure you have a grommet that fills this hole and fits tightly around the neck of the brake proportioning valve. The grommet seals around the proportioning valve as it enters the interior of the car, keeping dirt and water out while you're driving. Once you cut this access hole, you can determine the valve's mounting height and mark the position to drill and tap holes in the frame. The Baer proportioning valve comes with the necessary fittings to plumb it into the brake line.
Drag To Disc Download
Written by Cole Quinnell and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks
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